hey people - i just got new raybestos thermal quiet brakes put on front and back with slotted/drilled rotors and they installed today - the prob is that the abs/traction control light wont go off
yes i drove it - still wont go off
i need suggestions ASAP
i have -
1)reset car (battery removal 20 min)
2)air in lines (throw sensor)
3)sensor pooched
ahhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
air in the lines wouldn't cause the ABS sensor to go off .. and you know if you had air cuz the brake pedal would be realllly soft
there's a chance the sensor could have got damaged .. did you do the brake swap? or a shop?
focusnme,Feb 21 2006, 09:59 PM Wrote:hey people - i just got new raybestos thermal quiet brakes put on front and back with slotted/drilled rotors and they installed today - the prob is that the abs/traction control light wont go off
yes i drove it - still wont go off
i need suggestions ASAP
i have -
1)reset car (battery removal 20 min)
2)air in lines (throw sensor)
3)sensor pooched
ahhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
[right][snapback]171687[/snapback][/right]
It could be any of the above, could be a damaged sensor cable. Don't make the mistake of throwing money at it. Get the codes pulled for the brakes, and go from there.
yes at shop - new all around
may have damaged the ABS sensor or connection, if a sensor or something else is damaged i'd hold the shop responible for that.
good luck getting a shop to own up to it .. they could easily blame it on road debris ... but ya have the code pulled from the computer and then you'll know exactly which wheel is giving you the error
take it back to the shop and tell them yur light won;t go out.
If it;s a decent shop with any shred of customer service.... they'll fix it.
wheel sensor... get the shop to fix it...
I don't know how shops couldn't own up to it, I mean, the single greatest cause of ABS sensor failure tends to be the shop's fault.
I had the same thing when I had my clutch replaced. It was an AWD car and they needed to drop the drive shaft in the front to do it properly and they didn't. They never owned upto it and said that in the 1 day that I had the car they can't know if someone else touched the car or somethign else happened.
You're basically screwed if they don't own upto it. Someone told me the best thing to do is drive the car before you pay them, have the mechanic ride with you if need be.
darkpuppet,Feb 22 2006, 09:31 AM Wrote:I don't know how shops couldn't own up to it, [right][snapback]171721[/snapback][/right]
The shop could easily deny it and the evidence suggests they might try to ... consider:
If the light was one when you picked up the vehicle from the shop then you should have gone right back in and told them ... if you didn't, I can see how the shop might claim it wasn't their fault.
Also: most shops test drive a vehicle after brake service and you'd think they would have seen the light (so to speak) at that time ... and perhaps they did but chose not to say anything.
If that's the case you may be in for a bit of a fight getting them to own up to it now. I hope I'm wrong but nothing else seems realistic.
Someone else said it before ... try and find out what the problem is before you go back to them. Hopefully it is a condition that is easily fixed, or a condition that could only have happened during service.
Something to consider. When brake linings are replaced, the bleeder screws should be opened before pushing the brake piston back into the cylinder. This is to allow the dirty fluid to escape and not be forced into the ABS system. This is the major cause of a light being turned on after a brake job. Ask the shop what procedure they used for the brake job. Do not reveal that you have this knowledge. Confirm that they did not bleed out some of the old fluid then nail them. A professional shop should know this basic procedure.
From Raybestos
Quote:When servicing disc brakes, open the bleeder screws and vent the brake fluid, if it is necessary to push the caliper pistons in. There is sediment that naturally collects in calipers over a period of time. This sediment, if allowed to flow back into the master cylinder along with the brake fluid, can possibly damage the ABS hydraulic unit
JUST SO EVERYONE KNOWS
IT WAS
READY FOR THIS??????????
TONER RINGS - on the back side of the drums (abs and traction)
this little brake excursion cost me 4 days of no vehicle and $973 dollars
which $321.00 is being paid back by the shop that did the brakes
F%@KING DUMBASSES - -
TOOK IT TO FORD AND THEY SOLVED THE PROBLEMS IN 30 MINUTES!!!!!!!!
thanks again everyone
focusnme,Feb 24 2006, 12:49 PM Wrote:JUST SO EVERYONE KNOWS
IT WAS
READY FOR THIS??????????
TONER RINGS - on the back side of the drums (abs and traction)
this little brake excursion cost me 4 days of no vehicle and $973 dollars
which $321.00 is being paid back by the shop that did the brakes
F%@KING DUMBASSES - -
TOOK IT TO FORD AND THEY SOLVED THE PROBLEMS IN 30 MINUTES!!!!!!!!
thanks again everyone
[right][snapback]172115[/snapback][/right]
Okay, let me get this straight. You didn't take it back to the original shop? You shouldn't be paying anything.
I don't have drums on my Focus -- were the replacement drums different from the stock ones? Sounds like the brake shop should have fixed it gratis.
$931 for 30 minutes of work?
I find it VERY hard to believe that all four toner rings were faulty. I would find it much more believable to learn that they were reinstalled improperly, or damage during removal/reinstallation by the other shop.
It's too bad you already settled with them.
yes not installed properly - dont worry - getting my 400$ back and got some creaks and squeels fixed as well!!!!
If you have an issue with one it could cause problems for the rest and if they are a good shop they would tell you that if you were going to do it to do it all at the same time and you won't be back in a little while replacing one or more of the old ones.