Ok so we were up at my parents this weekend for Turkey. Mmmm turkey. This morning we pack up to go and then strange things start happening. We pull out of the driveway and drive about 100M and the temp guage spikes and the transmission temp light comes on aswell. Pull over and shut her down. Lift the hood and check the coolant level in the overflow and it's all good. Squeeze the upper hose and it isn't presurized so I open the cap. A bit of air excapes but no rush of fluid or anything out of the ordinary. So I seal everything back up and restart the car. Guage is back to normal and the trans temp light is off.
We carry on our way.... All is good.
We get to Etobicoke and drop Jamie off at her mothers. Get back on the highway and then the Brake and ABS lights both come on. So I pull over and test the brakes out and everything seems ok. So we continue. I drive with caution the whole way home leaving alot of space just in case. Pull off at the McCowan exit and the lights go out. WTF??? I haven't checked the fluid levels yet as unpacking needed to be done.
I am stumped as to what would cause all the lights to come on and go off like this. Anyone have some ideas?
What's the state of your battery?
NefCanuck
That's what I first thought, but I made it the 250+ KM's home without incident. I was just outside and realized that when I removed my HID's I forgot to tighten down a ground. So I fixed that issue. I think the temp issue may have to do with a worn out tensioner as I have intermitant belt squeal. The belt was replaced in the spring
Still, I'd load test that battery, even with the ground issue corrected, just to be safe.
NefCanuck
Could be a sign that the computer is also going, and from what I heard they are atleast $800 new from ford.
If it was the alternator then 1 of two things can happen.
1. You start to loose all power, the ABS and Trac Ctrl lights will come on, then the gauges will die, then the radio, then the car lol. This would indicate the alternator has died
2. Your gauges max out (Speedo, Tach, Temp, Gas) and you would probably hear a bad buzzing noise from stereo. This would be alternator overcharging the system eventually cooking itself
With that being said, I think your alternator is ok Kev. A fried battery would indicate a no start situation after you leave the car sitting for some time (for example overnight) or even sometimes immediatly. I would keep an eye on the situation. I would say your best bet is to try re-flashing the computer in hopes that this will take this problem away. If not I would grab a spare computer from the wreckers for $50 and keep it in the car should you suddenly get stranded one day. Just a few suggestions to keep you moving, if you have any questions shoot me a PM.
- Matt
thing about the spare computer to keep note of is you need one for the transmission that is in your car, so an automatic ecu for you I believe. I made the mistake back when my car was getting fixed I had scooped up a cheap ecu... but it was for an auto.
Also, your keys would have to be pre-programmed to it otherwise car won't start.
Well with the amount of belt squeel when cold and the mileage, I have ordered a new tensioner, idler, belt etc. I am going to rip into it this weekend.
Well I have a big job ahead of me. All the coolant hoses, t-stat and housing, belt, tensioner and idler and of course a coolant flush. Anybody have tips or want to lend a hand?
OK thermostat and housing aint so bad as well as a tensioner, idler and belt. But why replace all the coolant hoses? Are they all leaking or something? I'm not sure who told you all this but how would coolant hoses, thermostats and a belt tensioner cause weird lights to come on and off on your instrument cluster? Everything you've said that's been acting weird with the car has been relating to an electrical issue and everything you're about to fix is mechanical. I'd look deeper if you can........ If your working on the car this weekend then let me know, I will come out and look if I got the time Kev!
Well while the belt squeels I have noticed that the belt slipping a lot. Hence the tensioner and idler. T-stat hasn't been changed in a long time nor has the coolant, housing (we all know about the problems that they can cause). The lights all came on around the freezing point and the belt was slipping big time. But not since then.
(10-15-2010, 12:36 AM)Focus man. Focus. Wrote: [ -> ]Well while the belt squeels I have noticed that the belt slipping a lot. Hence the tensioner and idler. T-stat hasn't been changed in a long time nor has the coolant, housing (we all know about the problems that they can cause). The lights all came on around the freezing point and the belt was slipping big time. But not since then.
Forgive me if I've missed something ... but the symptoms you describe seem electrical ... maybe it's as simple as a slipping belt reducing the alternator's output ... or maybe the alternator is on its way out.
That's what I am hoping for Ken. I will find out if it fixes itself this weekend. On a side note it hasn't happened again.
Ripped into her this afternoon. Man the lower hose is hard to get to at the block. So I didn't change it. Both the idler and tensioner were messed up. The tensioner was stuck in position so it was more of an idler than anything else. Replaced the t-stat and housing, coolant & belt as well. Everything sounds much happier now.
Not that long ago I had intermittent problems with my Escape...with random things not working, and eventually, more than one thing at a time. It ended up being the battery itself, and I bought the Motorcraft MAX version, as it has a longer warranty an higher CCA than the original service battery. I overpaid for it, but at least they checked all of my grounds, my starter, solenoid, and alternator. I'm just waiting for the automatic or the rear diff to grenade itself all over the road (mine seems to have a very rare, as far as escapes go, desire to shift violently in and out of 2nd gear sometimes, depending on my rolling speed and how much I'm using the accelerator). It seems to downshift poorly mostly when I take my foot off the gas at lower speed (under 50k) and coast in stop and go traffic. I've had the transmission's computer reflashed once already, and that fixed the problem for about 3 months, so I'm wondering if I have a TPS problem, or if it IS the valve bodies in the tranny, which would suck bigtime. I've already had the transmission flushed too at 80K.
Anyways, sorry to threadjack, hopefully you have got your troubles sorted...