[sweetg]

hey guys has any one ever installed a final drive kit?? I'm rebuilding my trans and im interested in this ring gear set since i'm installing a quife diff .Is it worth the extra work and how much gain is there??

Whats the best cluch out there that is good for city and hard driving, I had a cluchnet but blew up when my release bearing blew on me, it was a good clutch just want to see whats out there.

thanks for ur help

[shadowzx3]

As I slowly get closer and closer to start buying stuff to rebuild my 5spd tranny, I have been looking at the final drive kit. In my opinion, it looks like a worthy upgrade if you're ripping apart the tranny anyways. My plan is to rip apart a transmission once and then hopefully *crosses fingers* never have to touch it again.

I'm personally planning to put in a LSD, new clutch/flywheel and final drive. Hopefully nothing else will need to be touched/replaced.

I have been looking around for a clutch/flywheel package for city/hard driving as I do love to abuse a tranny and give it a hard run from time to time (eventually get to a track as well). I have read lots of positive reviews about the clutchmasters clutch/flywheel combo. I believe its a stage 3 - the model number is like fx300. I have heard some people complain that the fx400 (stage 4 :P) has had some chatter issues.

Not sure what you are going after but that is as far as I know and have read up until now. Reasoning behind clutchmasters is they have supposidly "re-engineered" the fulcrum point so you can get a stronger hold with a smoother engagement without killing your leg. (from Auto performance and sound mag)

sweetg,Jul 1 2009, 02:41 PM Wrote:hey guys has any one ever installed a final drive kit?? I'm rebuilding my trans and im interested in this ring gear set since i'm installing a quife diff .Is it worth the extra work and how much gain is there??

Whats the best cluch out there that is good for city and hard driving, I had a cluchnet but blew up when my release bearing blew on me, it was a good clutch just want to see whats out there.

thanks for ur help
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[hardk0re]

Basically the weak point in the MTX75 is the synchros. If you want a bullet proof tranny your best bet is to upgrade those. The only person I know of is Terry Haynes and thats if you want to drop 5k on a tranny. BUT it will be smooth as glass and outlast your car. Thats not for everybody so below are my thoughts on the MTX75 "upgrades" available.

The 4.07 final drive gears from ford racing are good ONLY if your going to not boost your car. With boost 1st gear is far too short to be usefull. What is nice is that 5th gear becomes very usable as a passing gear even in low rpm. What is not so nice is the fuel economy you loose because your rpm's are now higher to maintain 120km/h.

The lightened flywheel is something I would NEVER do again, it sucks at least in the focus. In order to keep from stalling you will need a SCT tune to raise your idle and keep the engine from dropping rpms like a rock. Even after 2 tuners tried to fix my issues I still stall out at times when its cold because my rpm drops way too fast. What it does give me is faster reving, for rev matching. And I guess a few HP. But i'd give those HP back to keep from stalling every morning at the same stop signs.

As for your clutch, lots of people have had good sucess with clutchmasters and spec. I've got the spec stage 3 and it is very streetable, when you letup on the clutch slow you can still drive the car nice and smooth, but with your on the throttle and clutching quick the clutch grabs like #$#%$#%. With this clutch and with any clutch the key is to follow the manufacturers specifications on break-in. Don't cheat in this part or you'll be sorry. The clutch spring is actually pretty soft in the spec stage 3, I thought it would be harder but it almost feels softer than stock. It does not slip on me at all.

LSD is a nice option, driving aspects of the car are completely different especially when cornering and hard launches. I've go the Torsen and really like it. To be honest I don't know allot about the differences between the Quaife and the Torsen. I got the Torsen purely because of cost, it was less than 1/2 the cost at the time I purchased mine.


Fluid Matters, look into picking up some "ford honey". Myself I have Royal Purple synchromesh and it works really good. Feels much smoother than stock.



If I did it again, I would get a Spec Stage 3, or maybe clutchmasters stage 3,and a Torsen LSD. And thats it, I wouldn't touch the flywheel or final drive. If I had the cash I'd get a nice built tranny from Terry Haynes.

[NOS2Go4Me]

^^ +1.

[Flofocus]

hardk0re,Jul 1 2009, 09:21 PM Wrote:Basically the weak point in the MTX75 is the synchros.  If you want a bullet proof tranny your best bet is to upgrade those.  The only person I know of is Terry Haynes and thats if you want to drop 5k on a tranny.  BUT it will be smooth as glass and outlast your car.  Thats not for everybody so below are my thoughts on the MTX75 "upgrades" available.

The 4.07 final drive gears from ford racing are good ONLY if your going to not boost your car.  With boost 1st gear is far too short to be usefull.  What is nice is that 5th gear becomes very usable as a passing gear even in low rpm.  What is not so nice is the fuel economy you loose because your rpm's are now higher to maintain 120km/h.

The lightened flywheel is something I would NEVER do again, it sucks at least in the focus.  In order to keep from stalling you will need a SCT tune to raise your idle and keep the engine from dropping rpms like a rock.  Even after 2 tuners tried to fix my issues I still stall out at times when its cold because my rpm drops way too fast.  What it does give me is faster reving, for rev matching.  And I guess a few HP. But i'd give those HP back to keep from stalling every morning at the same stop signs.

As for your clutch, lots of people have had good sucess with clutchmasters and spec.  I've got the spec stage 3 and it is very streetable, when you letup on the clutch slow you can still drive the car nice and smooth, but with your on the throttle and clutching quick the clutch grabs like #$#%$#%.  With this clutch and with any clutch the key is to follow the manufacturers specifications on break-in.  Don't cheat in this part or you'll be sorry.  The clutch spring is actually pretty soft in the spec stage 3, I thought it would be harder but it almost feels softer than stock.  It does not slip on me at all.

LSD is a nice option, driving aspects of the car are completely different especially when cornering and hard launches.  I've go the Torsen and really like it.  To be honest I don't know allot about the differences between the Quaife and the Torsen.  I got the Torsen purely  because of cost, it was less than 1/2 the cost at the time I purchased mine.


Fluid Matters, look into picking up some "ford honey".  Myself I have Royal Purple synchromesh and it works really good.  Feels much smoother than stock.



If I did it again, I would get a Spec Stage 3, or maybe clutchmasters stage 3,and a Torsen LSD.  And thats it, I wouldn't touch the flywheel or final drive.  If I had the cash I'd get a nice built tranny from Terry Haynes.
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what he said. I had teh same setup without the flywheel and it held 220 torque very well, grabbed every single time at teh track. B)

[shadowzx3]

thanks for the info. After doing some reading from modified.com with them modding the focus including putting on the lightweight flywheel from focussport, i've come to realize a potential issue as to why some people may be having this stalling out problem. The sensor... ahh i'll quote the paragraph and paste a link:

Hope this helps everyone out:

Quote:The ECU monitors engine speed with a Hall-effect sensor that can sense a piece of ferrous metal passing. In many cases, these crank sensors are simply wheels with a series of square teeth cut in them, but on the Focus a series of recesses are drilled into the back of the flywheel and the metal left between each hole is what triggers the sensor. Of course, Hall effect sensors can't see aluminum passing, so with FocusSport's aluminum flywheel, the holes (or more precisely, the metal between the holes) had to be replaced with a series of steel pegs. It's a little more complicated than your average flywheel, but the sensor continues to work perfectly.

Project Ford Focus - Pt. 2

At the bottom of the page there is a picture of the two flywheels with a small paragraph that reads:

Quote:A series of holes in the back of the stock flywheel serves as a crank angle sensor. On the FocusSport flywheel, steel pegs serve the same purpose.

Maybe this is your problem? Whats great about this project and write-up is they really go into enough detail to help provide some level of education to the ones that don't know a thing, ex. myself.

My flywheel on the focus is starting to warp (or so it sounds, haven't seen ripped it apart yet) so I have been looking at what options are available to me at a decent cost. Basically at the end of the day, I'd like to do what needs to be done to the tranny and be done with it, hopefully never having to replace anything *crosses fingers for future* :P

[hardk0re]

It is also the 15 pounds of centrifugal weight thats lost. Like try running a lawnmower without the blade on it, rev it up and it goes like a bitch. But try and idle it now.....

[patrick23]

what engine are these info for? does ford change setup from Z-tec to D-tec or from the 06-07 model?

[sweetg]

they are for zetec but i really dont see any difference for any other engine.

this all sounds good to me soo i will be installing every thing hope fully by next month got a 04 mtx for $300 soo building her up.