[GFXjamie]

True but you can port both heads to the same point, just less material to take out

[1turbofocus]

Are you saying you can port the 2.0 to match the 2.3`s flow ? if so not really and even if that was the case why not port the larger one ? The 2.3 is a great head as it is and just needs a little clean up and the 2.3 will out flow a fully very good full ported 2.0 head

GFX did you know I was looking for 2 fs tuned turbo cars to do free tuning on , I will do you a free tune to see if you like it

Tom

[GFXjamie]

What I meant was that you can port each head to the same volume but that the 2.0 needs more material removed to get to where a ported 2.3 head would be such as the frpp. John did quite the extensive port job on his head. Not to mention the stock 2.0 head isn't a restriction at 300whp so I'm sure at 350ish it will be more than sufficient

As far as tuning goes I'm satisfied with my tuning on all 3 of our foci especially the 2007. I have a very good relationship with randy and he has been my go to guy for 5 years

[1turbofocus]

Yes , what I am saying is you cant port the 2.0 head to flow what the 2.3 head will flow stock , and you cant port the 2.3 head to flow what the 2.5 head will flow stock

Is a stock 2.0 head a restriction for 350 to the wheels no , would a ported 2.0 head make better HP/TQ then a stock 2.0 yes , will it make the hp/tq of a stock 2.3 head no

You cannot port the 2.0 head to out perform a 2.3 head stock there just isnt enough room to port the 2.0 head to make it better then the 2.3

I have a superflow flow bench and a dynojet dyno , I am not just making this up


Fair enough on the tune just offering if you ever change your mind let me know I think you will like it , I could show you things in a datalog that may change your mind for both engine safety , performance and over all drivability

Tom

Tom

[GFXjamie]

Tom, I am not going to argue with you as I know what's what.

Back to the build thread. If your ever looking for a head upgrade and have the cash to drop, check out the massive port works heads. They are pricey but complete and will flow more then any head on the market

[Scorcher000]

Just picked up my head and block from the shop. Decked, Cut, Polished and Bored.

And I did take a lot out of the flumes on the 2.0L head. Everything is port matched and wide opened. So yes this could flow same or a lot more then a 2.3L head. But not as much at the 2.5L head... that thing is massive.

[1turbofocus]

Guys I am not saying this to bust your balls like I said I have a flow bench and over 25 years or porting everything from Motorcycles to blow Alc hydro engines

You cannot port the 2.0 Duratec head to out flow the 2.3 stock head , the 2.0 just does not have enough material to be removed to make it as big

The massive heads are NOT the best flowing heads on the market but they are the most costly for what you get

Tom

[Scorcher000]

Day 6

I had some free time today so I decided to attack the motor I just got back from Berco Automotive.

I have to repaint the block as there were a bunch of spots where the chemical bath took paint off. Also you can see the nice job they did on boring out the cylinders to fit the pistons perfectly. I test fitted them and oh it couldn't be any better.



I flipped it over and started on the bottom. I took out the brace and started placing Amsoil Assembly Lube on all bearing seats, bearing and crankshaft too.


Bearing are in.



Slid the crankshaft in and gave it a spin. Once again a perfect fit as you see the excess lube get placed in the center of the lobes.



Installed the ARP Main Studs by hand only. I had to undo the nuts once I torqued it down because the studs were still to high. So I just cranked them down further to the point were they stop. I figured they would stop gently but that isn't the case for clearance.


Put the Bearings in the Brace and dropped it into the block holding down the Crankshaft.



Installed the new water pump.


This is a picture of the CFM Balance Shaft delete half installed. I need to get some Red Loctite. Also this is a picture of the ARP Studs in the proper position and torqued to 60 FT LBS in the preload process using the special grease on the studs ARP provides.


Just Lubed the walls of the cylinders for the pistons to slide nicely in. The lube I use will break down in oil so no need for saying I shouldn't have done that step...


Supertech 8.1 Piston on a Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rod. And yes the pistons are used. From the information I have on them, Top Speed Performance used them on a car to do a few dyno runs and then took it apart to prove a point for some reason. I had them checked out and they are, "A OK".




That's it for today. I didn't install the pistons yet because I wanted to get the Red Loctite for the bolts on the connecting rods just incase...

[zx3wantobesvt]

looking sweet, keep it up .

[GFXjamie]

Keep it up john! Looking great

[Scorcher000]

Thanks guys!!!!

Day 7

I found something interesting and I also f**ked up too...

As you can see I installed and test fitted some items. I just placed the Block Breather Delete Plate from Top Speed on and the Water Pump, Oil Filter Bracket and Thermostat. I still need to place some silicone down to seal everything.


I just installed the Oil Pump and Chain + Guides. But I did something different here. It is a 2.3L block but from what I have read, the 2.3L can't go past 7800RPM due to the Oil Pump RPM will be way to fast to allow fluid to suck up and past through properly. Same thing we do with the water pump for higher RPM's.
But, I installed my 2.0L Oil Pump Sprocket, Chain and Guides because the 2.0L, from what I have read, can rev past 8000RPM because the difference in the Oil Pump Sprocket is HUGE!!!!! as you see in the bottom picture.


Here is the difference. The 2.3L sitting on top of the 2.0L Oil Pump Sprocket.


So the part were I f**ked up. I was installing the Pistons into the block. The bad news started when I tried to undo the bolts on the Eagle Rods. I swear Hercules him self bolted them together. I had to use my impact gun to undo them...
Then I slid the 1st Piston assembly into the block and it went smooth like silk. The 2nd one not sooo much... I broke a ring... Gotta place an order for and it will take some time to get... Not impressed. But it gives me time to do some suspension work for now.



I must say guys I have really no experience working on engines, I can spin a wrench but I'm no Pro. Honestly I am loving every minute of working on this and I can't believe how easy this is to do. Plus I'm only using a couple different socket sets and some wrenches. No big heavy shop tools and nothing that would cost a person a leg and an arm.

That's it for today...

[zx3kash]

You are using a piston ring compressor right?

[1turbofocus]

I would hope you have a nice Tq wrench for the main studs , rods , head studs etc , Mic to check and set the bearing clearances ,
Im sure you have a 180 deg thermostat in there

I have to say I LOVE the Green color

Tom

[Scorcher000]

Yes I have a proper compressor. The top ring slipped out and I didn't see it before I gave it one last tap...


Yes I do have a good TQ wrench. It's a snap-on. And thanks the green really pops in the light. It will look a little odd with the Sonic Blue of the car but it will make it stand out. I plan on painting the Cossy Manifold Black and polishing the letters too.

[Scorcher000]

Just an update so far.

Yesterday I picked up some parts from Ken. I received my AEM Water Meth Kit. He says that the newer edition kits come with the upgraded pumps to flow more fluid.
I also received my Ford GT Super Car Fuel Pump too. He said he had a PITA time to get this... Ford no longer gives these away. You need to provide a VIN and I assume it would probably need to be ordered from a dealer too. But knowing Ken and the magic he has, he found some in a Ford warehouse deep in the USA and the guy was wanting to get rid of them. Not many buyers for them...

So this could be one of the last GT pumps that anyone can buy. With both the AEM Meth Kit and the GT Fuel Pump they will provide me with more then enough fuel to get some serious numbers now lol.

Last but not least I have decided to go with a 38 tooth setup too. I know your going to say, you can't do that, but watch me lol

I am getting the chain + guides from a Ranger 2.3L. The chain is the proper length and looks stronger and is quitter then the standard 2.3L chain found in many other Duratecs across the board.

[Scorcher000]

Just bought some new Supertech Rings for 88mm and a set of CFM Front Tubular Control Arms.

Dear Santa,
It seems I've bought all the things that I had on my list. Sooo surprise me.
From
John


LMAO

[Scorcher000]

Just looking through my 2005 Ford Focus Wiring Diagram book I bought off of a Ford tech a couple years ago and I found it is very easy to install the GT Pump into the cars wiring harness.

Center of the page you will see the tank and at the bottom left of the tank you see the GN/OR for the positive and BK for Ground. I just need to see the amperage flowing through the positive side to see if it is enough to power the 30AMP GT Pump.

[1turbofocus]

Are you installing this pump into the stock fuel pump canister ?

Using WM is great as long as you dont tune for it

Tom

[Scorcher000]

Why wouldn't you tune for it. Just in case the fluid runs out or a line melts???

[1turbofocus]

I wont tune for WM because

Could run out of fluid
hose blow off
jet (which are very very tiny ) stop up
micro / rpm switch fail
pump fail
arming switch / fuse fail

All of the above have happened to peoples cars that I know and all had to replace engines because with out the WM it ran lean / extra timing and blew the engines with 50/50 mix and none were tuned on the edge

Do your tune then add the WM for cooling , have your tuner set up the timing / knock sensor to add timing when safe through the knock sensor , there is a very cool way of doing this and it wont add any timing unless the engine shows no prone knock then adds timing slowly till it hits the knock threshold and holds .... adding or removing timing as needed to keep the engine safe this way a sensor that can remove .5 or a deg every engine rotation is remving knock or adding timing faster then you can think about it

I would love to do your tuning , you would be shocked how much better my tuning feels over the "competition" just in daily driving it let alone in boost

I have offered FREE tuning to anyone with a FS turbo kit and tune just to prove this fact , the last one was a very rep guy on FF and posted about his and there are others that feel the same , you cannot sit still and do your drivability tuning by holding the throttle at 2000 , 2500 , 3000 etc you need load on it and you need to be datalogging the knock sensor and other things which doesnt get done with the competition

Tom