Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Slotted Or Drilled
#1
Hey Guys,
I might have to replace my rotors on my SVT. Just put on new KVR carbon fibre pads too. Any recco on the rotors, Brembo? Slotted? Drilled?
2002 SVT mostly stock...K&N, KVR Carbon Fibre Brakes, Steeda Short Shifter, Steeda Carbon Fibre Dash Kit and no DAMN orange blinkers!
Reply
#2
just looked on focus sport, kinda pricey, but they are brembo...

they also have OE quality slotted or drilled

FocusSport
I wish my grass was Emo, so it would cut itself...
Reply
#3
with modern brakes, slotted and cross drilled are just ricer rotors.

stay solid, or at the absolute maximum go with slotted... cross drilled suck, offer no more braking power, and will just wear your pads quicker... not to mention you can't even machine the rotors if you warp them.
Contribute to focuscanada.net's future!

Donations of $20 and over get a custom title!







Reply
#4
darkpuppet,Jul 15 2005, 06:50 PM Wrote:with modern brakes, slotted and cross drilled are just ricer rotors.

stay solid, or at the absolute maximum go with slotted... cross drilled suck, offer no more braking power, and will just wear your pads quicker... not to mention you can't even machine the rotors if you warp them.
[right][snapback]122718[/snapback][/right]

i heard that with drilled rotors, you nedd to be going some pretty 'spirited' driving in order for them to work...otherwards they are no good...the pads dont heat up enough with daily driving to do the job...

is that true?
I wish my grass was Emo, so it would cut itself...
Reply
#5
not to mention you can't even machine the rotors if you warp them.



How do you go about "machining" your rotors? Where do take them...a brake place? (hope I don't sound dumb...know nothing about brakes)
2002 SVT mostly stock...K&N, KVR Carbon Fibre Brakes, Steeda Short Shifter, Steeda Carbon Fibre Dash Kit and no DAMN orange blinkers!
Reply
#6
I've heard plenty of good arguments for both, but I don't know if any of its ture or not. Here's some "supposed" problems... Soloted- major increase in break dust on wheels, does not disperse water very well. Drilled- very prone to cracking, can't be machined, but disperses water very well, but more prone to glazing over than slotted. Apparantly slotted doesn't glaze over because it cuts a new surface on the pad every time it goes over it. I don't know much about brakes either, but after reaserching this to death, everyone seems to have a conflicting opinion. I agree with Puppet, stay solid. The breaking on your SVTF is so good from the factory, I can't imagine any need to upgrade unless your attending open track events a couple of times a month.
Reply
#7
Puppet's right. But don't tell him I said that.

See Focused/Anthony. He works for Performance Improvements and had a deal on them a while ago for solid Brembos and Green stuff pads. See if he can hook you up.
TEAM PITA Don't settle for a wannabe, only accept the real deal.

One day I will rule the world. For now, I have to settle for this place.
Reply
#8
SVT ZX3,Jul 15 2005, 04:47 PM Wrote:I've heard plenty of good arguments for both, but I don't know if any of its ture or not. Here's some "supposed" problems... Soloted- major increase in break dust on wheels, does not disperse water very well. Drilled- very prone to cracking, can't be machined, but disperses water very well, but more prone to glazing over than slotted. Apparantly slotted doesn't glaze over because it cuts a new surface on the pad every time it goes over it. I don't know much about brakes either, but after reaserching this to death, everyone seems to have a conflicting opinion. I agree with Puppet, stay solid. The breaking on your SVTF is so good from the factory, I can't imagine any need to upgrade unless your attending open track events a couple of times a month.
[right][snapback]122753[/snapback][/right]


Even then, better pads, stainless steel brake lines and maybe a brake bias adjuster would do you better than new rotors. If you find larger solid rotors, that might be an option (with new calipers of course).
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"

33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.

Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT

COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
Reply
#9
Even Baer's website recommends against cross drilled rotors for track use.... the holes create stress risers that increase the probability of the rotor cracking under heavy use.

And once again, Baer's website also agrees that slotted, while they assist in the venting of gasses, new material pads and rotors don't generate the gasses that cause loss of braking like in the old days...

so it's not just me and meford
Contribute to focuscanada.net's future!

Donations of $20 and over get a custom title!







Reply
#10
From what I hear you can machine drilled rotors. Instead of using a metal point to scrape away a layer of the rotor that would get stuck in the holes, machinists use a sanding disk that grinds away a layer of the rotor. I have no idea who does this inthe GTA but that's what I've heard. My opinion, stay with blank rotors and don't buy anything that Ford sells over the counter because factory brake parts suck big time!
Reply
#11
Stay with blank rotors. Cross drilled rust and not recommended for everyday driving. You can only take advantage of the cross drilled when you're in auto cross. The holes are there for cooling purposes.
2006 Corolla - 1.8 DOHC 16V VVTi
2000 Focus SE Sport - 2.0 DOHC 16V Zetec - SOLD
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jaspher
http://ca.geocities.com/tdsports@rogers.com/home.htm
[Image: sig.jpg]
Reply
#12
Jaspher,Jul 16 2005, 03:19 PM Wrote:Stay with blank rotors.  Cross drilled rust and not recommended for everyday driving.  You can only take advantage of the cross drilled when you're in auto cross.  The holes are there for cooling purposes.
[right][snapback]122935[/snapback][/right]

where do you get this information from?

talk to most racing shops, and most brake manufacturers (including BAER), and nobody recommends crossdrilled for performance driving. holes there there to look cool, and any other cooling effect they have is negated by the stress risers that lead to cracks under constant heat cycling.

all rotors corrode... except for my old KVR cross drilled rotors.. and they must be an anomoly. That brake cleaner you're supposed to use when installing new rotors is used to remove the coating manufacturers put on the rotors to keep them from corroding in the box. On the car, it should be all steel.

Even 'plated' rotors aren't guaranteed against corrosion once you put them on your car.
Contribute to focuscanada.net's future!

Donations of $20 and over get a custom title!







Reply
#13
you took the cross drilled rotors off your KVR's Steve?
I wish my grass was Emo, so it would cut itself...
Reply
#14
FociPhil,Jul 16 2005, 05:21 PM Wrote:you took the cross drilled rotors off your KVR's Steve?
[right][snapback]122955[/snapback][/right]

yeah... I don't think they were properly bedded in and consequently, they warped.

so I replaced the fronts with slotted discs.. just so I have a bit of rice behind the wheel.
Contribute to focuscanada.net's future!

Donations of $20 and over get a custom title!







Reply
#15
i'd go with blanks personally.. no tech to back it up but i just feel better about something that HASN'T been cut/drilled after casting
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)