[Mystake]

You've all seen my h/u ?

Haven't touched door speakers yet, but here's how the trunk looks







those are two 12 inch alpine type r's powered by a monoblock alpine 1000watt amp.

power to the trunk is via 0 gauge cable, which from a... uh... splitter... thingy... turns it into i think 8 gauge.

it rocks... hard... when I showed it at the last monday meet I went to, I had it in a sealed box. The next day I went and exchanged it for a ported one.


also, I paid 13$ over cost for the entire ensemble. But, I gave futureshop the 1hr install and I got a 4year psp on it. I'm being safe on the subs, too easy can they blow or the amp could overheat. I figure in 4 years they'll have worn out and broken by then.

[ANTHONYD]

Did FS install that? If so, you better take it back and have them tidy up those wires!

[Mystake]

the enclosure needs a bit of "flex room" at the moment to slide around the trunk until it gets secured.

[Focus man. Focus.]

Looks....... Big.

[Mystake]

(10-05-2010, 01:05 PM)Focus man. Focus. Wrote: Looks....... Big.

uh yeah, space is at a premium now. Trunk is for the most part, useless. I can still use part of it though, if I take the hatch cover off. Then I just put boxes or cases above the enclosure.


for the most part though, its really just for show. Eventually the box is going and a new one will be built. It'll be a box with two chambers, one for each sub. Then they'll both be amp'd by MRP-M1000's. I can get them at a fairly good deal (very close to cost) and they're a powerful amp. (on the one amp alone it rocks the hell out of the car so I don't know what to expect from it once they're amp'd individually) From there... it's 8 gauge to the trunk to run a 4 channel amp for all the door speakers which'll probably get done over in alpine type r's as well and type s's in the back. MAYBE. Not finalized what speakers I'm putting in my doors. I haven't looked into it much yet anyway.

but yeah... thats the plan for my car's sound/audio. I'm going all out for it. Oh, might toss around the idea of a 2nd battery in the trunk. But that one there's a maybe.

[Drivesthebeast]

When I had my box with 2x 10" Poweracoustik BL10's in my ZX3, it was quite loud, especially considering I was using their smallest,cheapest amp, and cheapest 10's for that year too. I embarrassed a lot of stereo's costing a lot more money though...

How does it sound overall?

[NikiterZTS]

(10-05-2010, 01:05 PM)Focus man. Focus. Wrote: Looks....... Big.

....and really heavy

[Mystake]

(10-24-2010, 10:15 AM)Drivesthebeast Wrote: When I had my box with 2x 10" Poweracoustik BL10's in my ZX3, it was quite loud, especially considering I was using their smallest,cheapest amp, and cheapest 10's for that year too. I embarrassed a lot of stereo's costing a lot more money though...

How does it sound overall?

ive usually got it cranked up, i think with door speakers it'll all sound great together but as it sits its great subs (they ARE good imo) with half decent door speakers.

as for being heavy, yes, yes it is. i had to slide it onto the back of my rear seats while trying to get to the spare tire a few days ago. Not fun.

[drunkinmonkey]

id mount your amp to the back of the seat harder for somebody to steal everything if you get broken into..if its monuted to the box all they gotta do is snip some wire and the have your entire system lol

[Mystake]

it'll take someone who's stronger than me to lift that box and carry it out of the car without damaging anything, lol.

the rear bench is coming out eventually and I want to bolt down the sub box as it slides around tons.

---

rear sway bar... how do those get put in? Maybe I could put one in and use that as an anchor to bolt the enclosure to?

[drunkinmonkey]

i have the same box with 2 12' and im pretty damn small and i could get min in and out no problem and i mean im tiny lol so i think if i can lift a guy at average size can deff get it out no problem....just suggestion for your piece of mind

---

if you put a rear sway in i dont think the box will fit....look at your rear wheel and follow the center of the wheel up on the outside of the car and thats where the sway bar will be related to inside the trunk

[Mystake]

(11-02-2010, 08:06 AM)drunkinmonkey Wrote: i have the same box with 2 12' and im pretty damn small and i could get min in and out no problem and i mean im tiny lol so i think if i can lift a guy at average size can deff get it out no problem....just suggestion for your piece of mind

---

if you put a rear sway in i dont think the box will fit....look at your rear wheel and follow the center of the wheel up on the outside of the car and thats where the sway bar will be related to inside the trunk

thanks for the info, and for making me look weak :p
the box imo is ridiculously awkward to carry around.. lol

[fatphocus]

you would definately need to customize the box to make a rear strut tower bar fit...remember a swaybar is outside/underneath the car

it would have to gu right thru the box or modify the box to go around it? Like a U and the bar goes between lol.

or get a smaller box...


I have a RSTB in my SVT and it did alright to anchor my box...but once you take a good turn the box moves anyways and you gotta fix it lol. You might be okay if your box is heavier + take slower turns than i did

[Mystake]

im thinking of just making two removal braces made outta wood.

can't really think of the words to describe it, but it's basically a piece of wood with an angled V in one end, and an L on the other, so that it would fit into the corner of the trunk, while cupping the corner of the sub box. Put one on each side, towards the rear of the car and it should stop it from sliding side to side and back and forth.

[drunkinmonkey]

or use a couple L brackes in the back and your good

[Mystake]

(11-09-2010, 01:08 PM)drunkinmonkey Wrote: or use a couple L brackes in the back and your good

i want it removable, i assume you mean to drill and bolt in some L brackets? I also broke the trunk floor (slipped off the edge of the trunk into it, without the spare. cracked it right through lol)

[paolo]

looks good. my question is why the 0 guage to the 4 or 8 guage wire? why not just connect the 0 ga to your amp? is the terminals on the amp too small to accomidate that guage of wire? or were you planning to add an additional amp later on?

[Mystake]

the terminals on the amp were too small to take the 0 gauge. I am also going to eventually be running a second MRP-M1000 and I'm gunna run another 4/8 gauge wire to the trunk to power a 4chan amp for the doors.

[Drivesthebeast]

I remember when I had an oversized ported box in my first car...it had 2 MTX Black Golds in it, and then later on I had a pair of JBL GTX's, and then JBL Power Series 10's in it...the box weighed around 100lbs with the drivers loaded into it...mind you, it was made of 1" MDF, had asphault backed sound deadener lining the rear inside panels, and had 1/4" thick ABS pipes that were ar least 3.5" wide, and 11+ inches long that brought the tuning down to like 31hz...

Man, those were the days...lol

[Mystake]

that's crazy, btw.

(summary at bottom)
update:
car went into futureshop ottawa today. had an appointment to reseat the H/U as it fell back into the dash... again.
They started taking it apart, bezel comes off (and the deck attached to it...) both installers looked at it and put it back together the way I brought it in. Said there was nothing they could do with how it sits to fix it and that they had to completely restart.

They've ordered me a new double din kit and have a new bezel on hold as well, seems I may be getting a new one of those as only 1 screw (that was later added) and clips are whats holding the bezel in. According to them, there are 4 screws that are supposed to hold it in around where the stock deck was located.

Then, on the way home the JVC deck started to malfunction. Seems the USB port on it is getting... old? I don't know. It's too soon for it to break but for the past couple months, intermittently, 'tapping' or closing a car door is enough shake to disconnect the flash drive from the deck.

... I should really, REALLY get a picture of the install. The original installer used a hot glue gun on the deck which, tied into the paragraph right above this one means that if they do remove it to send it to JVC for repair... JVC will most likely turn them down. There is now also the possibility that damage was caused to the unit BY the hot glue gun and copious amounts of it that were used (the black kind of glue) as well as epoxy on the deck (whoops, yeah that's the stuff JVC will say 'sorry the deck is damaged/used we can't replace').

anyway, long story short:

futureshop mistakes: they poured epoxy and hot glue all over my deck to try to glue it to my bezel. it has never, ever held. my 4way button was actually stiffened by them unintentionally (after forgetting to reinstall the first time around)
futureshop ottawa fixups: starting the install over from scratch, ordered in a new installation kit, ordering a new bezel if the original one is deemed to be irreparable/unusable.

as for the deck and it needing repair... that'll be their headache to deal with. I either get a new deck or my old one fixed! None of which should be at any cost to myself. Only part that slightly worries me is that I got my deck for 699 which was 1. below cost, 2. 400$ below retail. I hope they don't try to cheat me out and offer to replace with an equally priced but unmatched in features head unit. But hey... at least I don't have to call JVC and try to explain why the deck has epoxy slobbered all over it.

I'm probably gunna have them look at the reverse camera soon too, everytime the bass punches the camera flickers lol.


I'll update as I find out more. I'm pretty optimistic about this all. I'm extremely glad for warranties right now... let me tell you...