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wrc rally replica build thread
nope not at the welds.
can you see the pic?
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its always hard to tell, since the flash takes away all sense of depth.
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replaced in underground parking lot, took 30 mins.
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f**k that sucks
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That SUUUCKS!!! is DOM fixing those?
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The design would have all the twist located to the one area where it failed.
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Contact Dan @ 519Kustomz get him to make you a proper set of lower control arms.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/519-Kustom...tos_stream
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no DOM is not going to do anything..
i would not even bother contacting him..
i already put driver side stock control arm and am going to buy pass side before DOM's fails.
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Wow he wont even replace his work? Thats bs , didnt you have to wait awhile to get them too?
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(01-20-2013, 06:39 AM)castone Wrote: Contact Dan @ 519Kustomz get him to make you a proper set of lower control arms.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/519-Kustom...tos_stream

Should put a picture of those LCA's on Facebook and tag him in it.
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I was gonna buy these. Guess not now
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Doms stuff is crap, his welds are only cosmetically pleasing. He doesn't have enough penetration.
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too bad simon isn't around any more. he could have been a big help for you.
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good thing is Dominic offered me for new control arm but I have to send back old one and he will cover new control arm and shipping back to me.
thing is though, i am in Canada and i am responsible for brokerage fee, taxes and duties.
not sure if it will be worth for me to go through all this and have new design control arm on driver side and old design on passenger side.
hmm..
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Cfm makes nice ones
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(01-22-2013, 09:31 AM)konafocuswrc Wrote: good thing is Dominic offered me for new control arm but I have to send back old one and he will cover new control arm and shipping back to me.
thing is though, i am in Canada and i am responsible for brokerage fee, taxes and duties.
not sure if it will be worth for me to go through all this and have new design control arm on driver side and old design on passenger side.
hmm..

Plus how will you know if the new one is any better than the old one. When you buy from a guy working in his garage it's hard to imagine what kind of quality control is in place.

If you have him do up a zero-value commercial invoice specifying replacement goods, and then send it by USPS, you should avoid any money to pay at the border.
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The problem with designing any LCA for the focus is that the suspension is designed to twist a little under compression, which if I remember correctly helps the wheel on the inside of a corner (the one being weighted) to toe in slightly more, effectively improving your turning performance.

The problem with aftermarket LCAs, or tubular ones (especially looking at the pic of yours), is that they have to be made to withstand a bit of twisting force... yours failed at the weakest point, where it's most likely to have heat fatiguing and stresses translated from the gusseting further down.

If you have Poly bushings that have no give, all of the torsional forces will be forced through the LCA, and it will fail.

My recommendation would be that if you're running tubular LCAs, definitely skip the poly bushings, or stay stock and go poly. The stock LCAs are probably the least worrisome point of your handling concerns IMO.
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btw.. check out the suspension bible which has information on the control blade setup
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Just took a look at the CFM tubulars, and two points that I like about them..

1) They're heat treated, so less likely to suffer failure near welds
2) more consistent load distribution across the torsional axis (longer, spaced out tubes)

My one major concern:
1) Rod ends - if you go with these, better spring for the boot.
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f**k!passenger side just did same thing and i am stuck on different region. i gotta take a local and 20mins driving will take 2hours. f**k
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