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Removing / replacing Split Port Engine
You do not need to look just at the ZTW (wagons), any Zetec would work. Work from the bottom, rather than from the top. Drop the whole front assembly rather than trying to lift or pull. Also, if you do go that route (replacing the SPI with a Zetec), be sure to keep the PAT (Passive Anti-Theft) key from the Zetec vehicle. When my son swapped the SVT (hot rod Zetec) into my wagon, we had to pull the transponder chip from the one key and swap it into the other. The PAT key transponder chip is matched to the ECU. (That is probably why the mechanics say it cannot be done. Hate to say it, but it can, and has been done.)
That's good information to know.

I thought I would pass on this information about the split port operation
of the engine.
This is my experience over one year with a used split port installed (number 3 for this wagon)

I've found it best to start and go. Don't let it idle too long after starting.
Then, drive it hard. Like you're in a hurry.
I've found on my wagon that this seems to be memorized by the engine system
and I've been able to fast accellerate out of a ramp onto the highway with
plenty of power more than when I used to drive it "easy" like.

I have no reasons to give for this, but there is a difference, in that it allows
those secondary intake ports to actually start working on hard accelleration.
Something I found maybe wasn't working if I was driving it easy like all the
This engine has power off the light.

ps. I'm the original poster: Erness, and using this sign in name.

All the best

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