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I would stick with a lower ratio. 3.41 or 3.82 (stock) so that way you aren't running out of gears. Unless you plan on some massive tire it will hurt you being boosted. Go for the gear set, it will make a good different for those gears.

If you can get a 3.41 which was from the pzev focus, it will stretch out the car and have it stay in power longer and reduce wheel spin in lower gears. It effectively reduces your mechanical advantage from the 3.82 but that's not a bad thing.

Ya I just used the calculator Mfactory has...
All along I've been just reading up on other peoples threads and gauging what I was going to do with the tranny that way. But um... holy s**t, MFactory I tap 5th gear at 8000RPM at 109MPH and 05+ stock is 5th gear at 8000RPM at 200MPH.
Blue lines are stock and red is the MFactory
Graph Link

So Now I may just leave the stock ratios. Use the final drive of 4.750 from Mfactory and have Joey fix up any damaged parts with stock parts when he installs the LSD.

As for a smoke show ya I plan on doing a low boost setting hooked to a bottom like Jamie but I'm not gonna steal his idea. I'm just gonna use a glowing push button on the dash or console.

Here are the pics of the Shift Knob and of me setting the head on to re spray the green back on.

Do the gearing but keep stock final drive instead. If your going to build it up atleast get the stronger gears in there and some better ratios for track driving

This is interesting because some turbo honda guys that run time attack run short final drives. As long as your not running out of gear on a big track like mosport your fine. Im going to get one, but im n/a for now. Hopefully you have good results with the turbo and the 4.75

sub'd

So I had about 30 min to fool around with the engine on Wednesday. I've just been to busy to get the pictures and info up.

I got my parts in from Ken!!!!!
Clutch Masters Stg 4 + Light Weight Flywheel
ARP 2.3L Flywheel bolts
Ford OE Fogs SVT
2.0/2.3 OE Headgasket WAY better quality then Felpro...



So I rolled my engine over into some light at my work as the cold has taken it's toll on the tube lights where my car is parked in the back. Anyway, I unbolted the head off the top of the block and cleaned off any excess paint that made it onto the mounting surface.



Then I wiped out the cylinders and laid down the headgasket and slide the head down on the studs. Don't start thinking dirty now... I also spun the crank out of Top Dead Center just in case the valves come in contact with the pistons when the cams are bolted in.
But look how perfect that 88mm bore is perfect for the headgasket. You can't get any better then that...




I then oiled the springs and slide on the stock tappets. I do not need to change the size of them as they are set perfectly with the OE length valves and the cutting done to the head at the machine shop.


Then I popped on the exhaust cam. And no that isn't rust, that is the hot side marking. the intake cam has a blue marking for people that haven't seen that before.



Just as I was going to bolt on the cam holders I got a service call. For a slow period we have been crazy busy and this year coming may just be even crazier. I was even talking to Jamie to pay him to finish my car is I run out of time around mid April. That would be my wtf timeline if I haven't got the motor put back in by then. But me being busy is good for my future plans as I have much bigger plans then the Focus.

Just let me know bud! I'll get it all assembled for ya in no time!

Just get that motor back together and ready to go in the car

Lol I'm working on it

So I had a couple more minutes the other day to work on the head again.

But I'm shocked that no one noticed I screwed up. I didn't want to say anything until I could get it fixed. Take a look at this pick and look in the bolt holes. Do you see any threads lol




So I was going to take it all off again and send it around the corner to United Welding but I didn't want to spend more money and I knew how to fix this easy peasy lol

I created my own Helicoli


I used some SS MIG Welding wire and cut about 3/4 of an inch in length. I left the good side bolted tight and dropped it in the hole. I put the bolt in and put some muscle into a downward force as I tightened the bolt in.
Well it worked and I doubt I will ever have a problem with it again.



Needless to say the Intake cam is in and all I need to do is get my timing tools and find my cam bolts that I miss placed during the move into my new apartment.... Not happy. Maybe Jamie can give me back the stock cams so I can take those bolts...

That's it for now

So today I put the rear end up on stands and slapped on my new rims for fitment. Oh they look soo good.
I went with a 215/45R17 so there is more rubber to handle power, braking and steering.
Next I will rip out the suspension bits and really start installing the new pieces to the puzzle.



Rear Stretch


Front, no stretch lol


Suspension is still up but I sat it back down and I love the look. But If I want to go low low, then I will have to buy the roller.

looking good man. its coming along nicely

Nice, I like the monster truck look you should keep it

Lol thanks and no monster truck look. no more of that lol.

Ok so with the warm weather I have gotten some motivation to work on the car once again.
Starting with the oil pan.
Here is a new 2.3L Oil Pan and you can see the stock baffles. Not good for cornering.



Here is the GP Werks Oil Baffle. Great for cornering lol


Unbolted the 6 10mm bolts.


Put the GP Werks Baffle in place and bolted it down but not before applying Loctite to the threads on the bolts.



I then installed the oil pump suction tube and gaskets


Then installed the oil pan just for fitment. I still need to apply high temp back silicone and seal it up.

I had some more free time this morning to tinker with the engine.

I installed the cam sprockets and thanks to Jamie for getting me the cam bolts so I could continue with the build.


I installed the timing chain and timed the engine. And spun the pistons around to test to see if anything touches. It's all free and builds pressure too.
Just to bring it up again. I used the timing set from a 2.3L Ranger motor because of the stronger and more quite chain like the 2.0L and the 2.0L oil pump sprocket because the larger diameter for more flow at higher RPM levels.





So I also noticed with the 2.3L and the 2.0L oil pan that you can actually have a easy Oil baffle install if you can weld lol.

Pic below is the 2.3L and the one on the top is the 2.0L. The right side of the 2.0L has no depth. It is just sealed off from factor to hold less oil. And the oil splash plates in the 2.0L can have a simple piece of metal welded to it to create a oil baffle as compared to the 2.3L GPwerks Oil baffle.



Now I have laid down some High Temp Silicone to install my new pan.




Then I bolted it to the block and sealed her tight.



That's it for now.

I know this wont change your mind but the stock windage tray is far superior to the one your going to install

Tom

(03-26-2014, 02:45 PM)1turbofocus Wrote: [ -> ]I know this wont change your mind but the stock windage tray is far superior to the one your going to install

Tom

Hey Tom.

I do agree with you on that. The 2.0l would be the better pan and windage tray. Less slop. But I had already bought the dame 2.3l (not cheap) and the baffle for it too. In the upside. It will hold more oil lol

I do recommend ppl in the future to save the $200 and just use the stock 2.0l pan and baffles.

lookin good John. plan on having this on the road this year?

Yep, I plan to have to running at the end of April and ready to go down to Ford Nations in June!

nice man. stoked to see this thing again, its been a few years lol

Yep, she's been sitting around while I collected parts and got a good paying job to fund this disaster lol