Focus man, Focus.,Oct 23 2009, 12:12 PM Wrote:Also remember that the head bolt that you have removed from the engine should not be re-used.ÃÂ Most all of todays engines use a torque to yield head bolt that streches slightly when initally installed.ÃÂ Get a new set of bolts.
Quote:Torque-to-yield bolts are exactly what they sound like. They stretch to the yield point as they are tightened. These bolts are commonly used where exact clamping loads are required on parts. You may find them used to hold cylinder heads, connecting rods, crankshaft main bearing caps, flywheels and front engine dampers. When a shop manual indicates that a bolt is to be discarded and new ones used, they are almost always torque-to yield bolts.
Buying new bolts every time one is removed seems expensive and a waste of time. After all, the old bolts still look good, but looks can be deceiving. Reusing the old bolts can cause expensive engine failure. During the tightening process, the bolts have been pulled to their elastic limit. The bolts actually stretch. Only new bolts can provide the even clamping force needed on todayââ¬â¢s engines.
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That sounds like some marketing mumbo jumbo to sell more bolts. I've never ever heard of this.
edit: NVM. I see now. Here's the link to Car and Driver on the info.
http://www.canadiandriver.com/2004/03/03/a...-tightening.htm
Focus man, Focus.,Oct 23 2009, 11:12 AM Wrote:Also remember that the head bolt that you have removed from the engine should not be re-used. Most all of todays engines use a torque to yield head bolt that streches slightly when initally installed. Get a new set of bolts.
Quote:Torque-to-yield bolts are exactly what they sound like. They stretch to the yield point as they are tightened. These bolts are commonly used where exact clamping loads are required on parts. You may find them used to hold cylinder heads, connecting rods, crankshaft main bearing caps, flywheels and front engine dampers. When a shop manual indicates that a bolt is to be discarded and new ones used, they are almost always torque-to yield bolts.
Buying new bolts every time one is removed seems expensive and a waste of time. After all, the old bolts still look good, but looks can be deceiving. Reusing the old bolts can cause expensive engine failure. During the tightening process, the bolts have been pulled to their elastic limit. The bolts actually stretch. Only new bolts can provide the even clamping force needed on todayââ¬â¢s engines.
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already ordered arp main studs and head studs
SVT fuel pump is the same one as stock i've read.
malim,Oct 25 2009, 12:06 AM Wrote:SVT fuel pump is the same one as stock i've read.
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do you guys recommend mechanical or full sweep electric gauges...i thik im gonna go mechanical due to them being a tonne cheaper and just get boost electric
drunkinmonkey,Oct 25 2009, 03:47 PM Wrote:malim,Oct 25 2009, 12:06 AM Wrote:SVT fuel pump is the same one as stock i've read.
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do you guys recommend mechanical or full sweep electric gauges...i thik im gonna go mechanical due to them being a tonne cheaper and just get boost electric
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They will work either way if you can save a couple of bucks then go for it as for the fuel pump SVT and other Foci do have different fuel pumps and high five on the ARP Studs
Go Mechanical with all. No need for fancy digital.
Oscar The Grouch,Oct 26 2009, 12:02 PM Wrote:Go Mechanical with all. No need for fancy digital.
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thankf the help guys..ordered my cam gears today....might even order the rest of the stuff i need for the build tomorrow...i found out i can order everything and pay for it as i need it
what gauges did you go with?
NikiterZTS,Oct 26 2009, 06:36 PM Wrote:Defi gauges FTW :) :)
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Neat. But I like my Glowshift ones.
Oscar The Grouch,Oct 26 2009, 06:06 PM Wrote:NikiterZTS,Oct 26 2009, 06:36 PM Wrote:Defi gauges FTW :) :)
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Neat. But I like my Glowshift ones.
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will be going with autometer cobalt gauges to match my dash..not to sure when ill get those...we have them in house and dont need to be ordered so i can grab those anytime
what tb is better? steeda or cfm?? or doesnt it matter
drunkinmonkey,Oct 27 2009, 09:00 PM Wrote:what tb is better? steeda or cfm?? or doesnt it matter
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Truth is you won't see much performance, your forcing compressed charge through it. the restriction of the stock one on power is minimal. On a roots style blower like PW or Jackson your going to see more power, but not on a turbo setup.
I had an issue with a 65mm TB, it was just too sensitive especially running 200+whp its going to make launches difficult in poor traction conditions (rain). Couple that with a stage 3 clutch and its even worse.
I ended up just porting the stock TB to increase the throttle response a little. Cost next to nothing and is a very good compromise to the expensive billet TB's.
hardk0re,Oct 28 2009, 06:38 AM Wrote:drunkinmonkey,Oct 27 2009, 09:00 PM Wrote:what tb is better? steeda or cfm?? or doesnt it matter
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Truth is you won't see much performance, your forcing compressed charge through it. the restriction of the stock one on power is minimal. On a roots style blower like PW or Jackson your going to see more power, but not on a turbo setup.
I had an issue with a 65mm TB, it was just too sensitive especially running 200+whp its going to make launches difficult in poor traction conditions (rain). Couple that with a stage 3 clutch and its even worse.
I ended up just porting the stock TB to increase the throttle response a little. Cost next to nothing and is a very good compromise to the expensive billet TB's.
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and how exactly do you port a tb???? lol dony you have to replac the little disk/flapper thingy to a bigger diameter??
For porting the stock TB your just smoothing out the ridges from the stock one you leave the butterfly the same. Its just the parts above that you smooth out. At the rear you will need to epoxy becuase smoothing out completely you end up with a hole at the rear due to its thinning out.
I don't see any of the old howto's anymore kicking around but i'm sure i fyou look on those other sites you may find it.
hardk0re,Oct 28 2009, 07:38 AM Wrote:drunkinmonkey,Oct 27 2009, 09:00 PM Wrote:what tb is better? steeda or cfm?? or doesnt it matter
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Truth is you won't see much performance, your forcing compressed charge through it. the restriction of the stock one on power is minimal. On a roots style blower like PW or Jackson your going to see more power, but not on a turbo setup.
I had an issue with a 65mm TB, it was just too sensitive especially running 200+whp its going to make launches difficult in poor traction conditions (rain). Couple that with a stage 3 clutch and its even worse.
I ended up just porting the stock TB to increase the throttle response a little. Cost next to nothing and is a very good compromise to the expensive billet TB's.
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I would disagree here with you the stock tb is tiny whats the point or running 2" or 2'5" intercooler piping if its going to conect to a small restricting tb. More air flow more power. Im running the steeda one and Ive never had a problem with it. But you will benefit from any aftermarket upgrade.
ZX3_2NV,Oct 28 2009, 07:50 AM Wrote:hardk0re,Oct 28 2009, 07:38 AM Wrote:drunkinmonkey,Oct 27 2009, 09:00 PM Wrote:what tb is better? steeda or cfm?? or doesnt it matter
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Truth is you won't see much performance, your forcing compressed charge through it. the restriction of the stock one on power is minimal. On a roots style blower like PW or Jackson your going to see more power, but not on a turbo setup.
I had an issue with a 65mm TB, it was just too sensitive especially running 200+whp its going to make launches difficult in poor traction conditions (rain). Couple that with a stage 3 clutch and its even worse.
I ended up just porting the stock TB to increase the throttle response a little. Cost next to nothing and is a very good compromise to the expensive billet TB's.
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hmm looks like i got some thinking to do....i also thought an aftermarket TB would benefit do you what you explained..bigger openeing better throttle response
I would disagree here with you the stock tb is tiny whats the point or running 2" or 2'5" intercooler piping if its going to conect to a small restricting tb. More air flow more power. Im running the steeda one and Ive never had a problem with it. But you will benefit from any aftermarket upgrade.
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ZX3_2NV,Oct 28 2009, 08:50 AM Wrote:hardk0re,Oct 28 2009, 07:38 AM Wrote:drunkinmonkey,Oct 27 2009, 09:00 PM Wrote:what tb is better? steeda or cfm?? or doesnt it matter
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Truth is you won't see much performance, your forcing compressed charge through it. the restriction of the stock one on power is minimal. On a roots style blower like PW or Jackson your going to see more power, but not on a turbo setup.
I had an issue with a 65mm TB, it was just too sensitive especially running 200+whp its going to make launches difficult in poor traction conditions (rain). Couple that with a stage 3 clutch and its even worse.
I ended up just porting the stock TB to increase the throttle response a little. Cost next to nothing and is a very good compromise to the expensive billet TB's.
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I would disagree here with you the stock tb is tiny whats the point or running 2" or 2'5" intercooler piping if its going to conect to a small restricting tb. More air flow more power. Im running the steeda one and Ive never had a problem with it. But you will benefit from any aftermarket upgrade.
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Prove it with a before/after dyno and i'll believe you. If it is more than 5-10hp i'd be supprised. If it is on the same dyno, same operator and same day with the TB swapped on the dyno is the only way the results are valid.
I'm going to agree with hardkore, I didnt notice any difference with my AM TB, and was more of a PITA than anything. Its why I sold it when I blew my motor and just swapped back the ported stock one I had...
bah i dunno what to do now
on a good note i ordered eagle rods and JE turbo pistons today :D